Valparaíso—or just “Valpo”—totally lives up to its denomination: It’s a big jewel box made up of colorful small houses, a labyrinth of streets and street art everywhere you look. If you don’t want your house’s walls to be sprayed with tags or graffiti, your best option is to ask an artist to create a mural. That’s one of the things we learned on the excellent free walking tour offered by Tours for Tips that we did (twice).

We really fell in love with Valparaíso. We took the O-bus (recycled buses from Switzerland) and funiculars like the locals, climbed a lot of stairs, counted the containers that were loaded and unloaded from large freight ships from the balcony of our AirBnB (appropriately decorated in marine style through and through), and got to enjoy the first of many Pisco Sours, Chile’s delicious national drink.

Here, we were joined by Simone’s childhood friend/sister-in-mind Ulla (hola, Ulla!) who would travel with us for four weeks down to Patagonia and then back to BA.

One afternoon, we also checked out the beach of nearby Viña del Mar. #ChillingInChile