León is the second largest city in Nicaragua (with a mere 200,000 inhabitants) and the liberal center of the country (whereas conservative regimes used to pick Granada as the capital).
It was also one center of the FSLN (Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional), a revolutionary group fighting Somoza’s (US-backed) dictatorship in the 60s and 70s. They continued the movement of Sandino, who had already fought the US occupation of the country in the early 20th century.
The Museo de la Revolución, right across the beautiful white cathedral, is the former headquarters of the FSLN, now rather a ruin than the beautiful colonial building it used to be. What makes it really special is that tours through the museum are guided by veterans of the fight against the Somoza dictatorship. It was impressive to hear first-hand accounts of the fight for freedom. Our guide also took us to the rooftop of the building (probably not TÜV-tested).
We stayed at la Casona Colonial, a historic colonial house furnished with antiques and run by a very nice old señora.
On our way to and from León, we passed by volcano Momotombo, which was actually erupting for the first time since 1905.
